Dominica

September 1st - 3rd 2025

Having spent too little time in Guadeloupe, we raised anchor and set course for Portsmouth, Dominica. About five miles off the coast, a small boat suddenly appeared from nowhere, speeding toward us from the port side, opposite our direction of travel. A young man with intense energy and enthusiasm stood at the helm of his dinghy, greeting us with a broad smile. I dropped my guard; outboards charging directly at us at sea are not my favourite scenario.

He explained that he helps visiting boats find the right anchorage and can fetch supplies if needed. His approach wasn’t pushy, and after a short chat, we said goodbye. He sped off again, gripping a line tied to the bow with one hand and a long throttle handle with the other. As the dinghy lurched upward and surged ahead, he looked almost as if he were riding a horse.

We arrived at the open bay and port of Portsmouth, checked in, and set out to explore the town. It was a particularly hot, humid day, with no clouds in the sky and no wind. We were all in need of a cold drink. Despite walking in the heat and not having eaten in a while, the kids did well to keep it together. Hot grocery excursions when hungry can be challenging; definitely not the moments you see on YouTube or Facebook.

At the main dinghy wharf, we immediately felt eyes on us. Nothing about it felt sinister, but the atmosphere was noticeably different from the French islands. Perhaps it was because we were visiting outside cruising season; ours was one of only three cruising boats in the bay.

Walking from the wharf through a busy market, it felt as though everyone paused to stare. We moved together in a small pack, Michelle and I each holding a child’s hand. Many onlookers were vendors in small stalls or shopfronts, all hoping to make a sale. We bought some fruit and returned to the dinghy.

Beyond Portsmouth, the mountains rise steeply, covered in thick jungle. Lush green vegetation stretches over the slopes and ridges, with no signs of clear-cuts like those in Guadeloupe or back home in BC. Several of these peaks are active volcanoes.

Being here sparked a deeper curiosity about what makes Dominica so unique. Its appeal, at least to me, lies in the fact that it doesn’t try too hard to attract tourism. Dominica is celebrated for its rugged, mountainous terrain, waterfalls, and unspoiled trails rather than for developed resorts and beaches. Many scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean II were filmed on the island, likely because of its wild beauty and minimal commercialism.

After checking the weather forecast, we saw another tropical depression forming mid-Atlantic, about a week from reaching the Caribbean. We decided to head down the island to Pointe Michel. Near the small town lies a well-known natural wonder: Champagne Reef. It earns its name from the tiny volcanic bubbles rising from the seabed, giving snorkelers the sensation of swimming in champagne. The area forms part of the Soufrière Marine Reserve.

Our time there was brief—just one evening. Near dusk, Owen and I set out in the dinghy to find Champagne Beach and search for the bubbles. We located the mooring buoys and wasted no time getting into the water. Although we didn’t find the bubbles, we encountered schools of fish and a few turtles. The steep mountain jungle drops abruptly from high ridges to cliffs that fall straight into the sea where we swam. The place is wild and beautiful. Owen took it all in stride, fully present, calm, and matter-of-fact: “Let’s find these bubbles, Daddy.”

Close to Champagne Beach, Dominica

Only one curious fisherman passed as the sun set. No other cruisers were moored near the edge of the small yet noisy town. For such a small place, the soundscape is big, with honking horns, sirens, loud reggae, and shouting well into the night. I want to spend more time in Dominica on our way back north; this visit felt far too rushed, just another fleeting taste of a world I barely know.